Exclusive or Inclusive, Which Jeopardizes the Brand?

It has become a growing trend for high-end famous designers to partner with mass-market retailers. We’ve seen it with Karl Lagerfeld and H & M, last season’s partnership with Viktor & Rolf and H&M, and most recently Proenza Schouler and Target. These partnerships have been very lucrative for both sides. One could even argue that the mass-market retailers might be getting more out of the deal.
Of course, there are always two sides to each story. From one view point, those who believe in exclusivity are probably all set to throw away their ready-to-wear and haute couture by those said designers. From another view point, those who live on a shoe string budget and have always wanted to indulge are leaping for joy. And then there are those who probably don’t care and don’t know who the designers are or the brands they may represent.
Being exclusive somehow says to consumers that you are a brand that is coveted by many however, only available to few. Therefore, the brand has more equity and is viewed in high esteem. Many have frowned upon designers who have decided to roll up their sleeves and provide low-end retailers with a taste of high quality fashion. Thus, the loss of respect from their peers and loyal customers may drive the brand’s image down.
On the other hand, inclusiveness can open so many other avenues. Designers have the opportunity to parade their names in front of a broader audience and gain mass appeal. Also, within their lines they can create lower priced versions (i.e. Marc by Marc Jacobs). This works well especially when the designer has already partnered with a low-end retailer. In this case, the designer has established a relationship with a consumer that probably didn’t know where to buy their line, let alone able to afford it. Of course, the biggest payoff is the money. These deals are worth millions of dollars, permitting the designers to do what most designers ultimately want to do besides create beautiful clothing: increase their bottom line.
I guess the question should not be if such partnerships jeopardize their brands. The question, perhaps, should be does it jeopardize their bottom line. At the end of day, we are mere spectators with opinions and it is up to the designers to decide which question is appropriate to ask based on their ultimate goal: the money or the craft.